“There are two words that identify vintage 2022: resistance and resilience“. The words of Luca Sandrone, Luciano Sandrone winery, perfectly sum up the thoughts of the producers, to describe the vintage and harvest of Barolo 2022. A vintage, therefore, under the banner of resilience and climatic adaptation, for the Barolo producers of the Deditus Association, who, at the end of the harvest and the first fermentations, and at the gates of the winter period of rest and maturation, collect their considerations on a 2022 full of worries, but also of surprises, and above all of reflections for the future.
“My father, after almost 45 vintages, cannot remember a year like this. Especially with such a drought and such early harvest dates,‘ comments Lorenzo Scavino, Azelia, immediately making clear the peculiarity of the vintage and the complexity that the producers had to face.
A mild and extremely dry winter immediately confronted producers with the need to carefully evaluate what to do: “it was essential to calmly assess the most appropriate agronomic interventions,” confirms Alberto Cordero di Montezemolo, of the winery of the same name. “An adequate supply of organic substance in the soil was fundamental,” explains Federica Boffa, Pio Cesare, “as was careful management of the greenery in the vineyards, with the bunches kept well covered and protected from the leaves, to avoid overheating and burn problems. We have accentuated the already severe thinning to lighten the plants in view of the lack of water and the high temperatures (with the last thinning step just a few weeks before the harvest)’.
The summer season was also atypical, reflecting the general climate change noted with the mild temperatures and lack of rain of winter. “The vast majority of rainfall occurred in the summer months (with already very high temperatures, an almost tropical climate) through thunderstorms,” Federica Boffa points out. “It was therefore very intense rainfall in the space of a few minutes, which unfortunately cannot be picked up much by the soil if it is not prepared to receive it (as we did) and which slips away by runoff due to the force with which it falls. ”
The atypical and, in some ways, extreme conditions of the vintage were also a time for important evaluations and considerations. “The vine has in fact confirmed itself as a thrifty plant with great adaptability. It has been able to cope with the stress generated by the climatic conditions and has emerged stronger. Today, the fruits are offering nuances exceeding expectations. “Luca Sandrone reflects. According to Lorenzo Scavino, the potential of the more historic vines within the vineyard in this situation was surprising: ‘our old vines suffered very little from this year’s particular drought, with their deep roots they were able to find water in depth and thus produced amazing grapes.
On the other hand, it is clear to producers who have a history of vintages behind them, both personal and that of their company, how the 2022 vintage represents a fundamental turning point in the climate debate: ‘vintages like this one represent an important moment of growth for those who, like us, have to know how to adapt to climate change,‘ admits Stefano Gagliardo, Poderi Gianni Gagliardo. He is echoed by Stefano Chiarlo, Michele Chiarlo winery: “the 2022 harvest will be remembered for the climatic adaptation that the vines have demonstrated and for the implementation of the virtuous practices that the Barolo producers, building on previous vintages with similar climatic conditions, have adopted. ” Every choice, even the one, as Luca Sandrone explains, of “not intervening as an act of thought and will” made the difference in a vintage like this one.
It was therefore also a test year, to verify to what extent Barolo producers have been able, with the latest vintages, to respond effectively to climatic conditions that, however difficult, do not come as a surprise. In fact, for years now, producers have been adopting systems and shrewdness in the vineyard to cope with the current climatic trend, in order to guarantee the excellence of their product.
And indeed, at the end of a critical, extremely early and rapid harvest, the producers cannot but be surprised at the quality obtained. “With proper organic care, we obtained very healthy grapes, not burnt by the sun and with a high sugar concentration and acidity in line with recent vintages,” confirms Gianluca Torrengo, Prunotto’s oenologist. He is echoed by the oenologist of the Poderi Luigi Einaudi company: ‘amazing grapes despite predictions. Elegant, structured wines‘. “The harvest was excellent for us,” comments Lorenzo Scavino, Azelia, “the yields were lower, depending on the vineyard, from about 10 to 20% less, but we cannot complain as the bunches were very healthy, fully ripe and concentrated. ”
The results from the first tastings in the cellar also confirm the predictions from the harvest: ‘the wines still undergoing malolactic fermentation are interesting, pleasant, elegant with a slightly sweet aftertaste on the finish, due in part to the high alcohol content,’ explains Gianluca Torrengo.
Processing in the cellar continues along the lines of the grapes received: with the aim of enhancing their concentration, while maintaining acidity and fragrance, as Poderi Luigi Einaudi points out: “little pumping over and little extraction, low temperatures in cement, to maintain the fragrance. ”
“To date, the alcoholic fermentations are complete and we are busy racking. ” explains Cesare Benvenuto, Pio Cesare. “After racking, the wine is left to rest in stainless steel or cement tanks in a heated room to facilitate the start and progress of malolactic fermentation, which is essential for the roundness and greater drinkability of our Barolo wines. ”
And with the wine ready for winter, it is time for an initial assessment. “There is no doubt that, after three great vintages like the previous ones, the 2022 vintage can be placed one step below,” Alberto Cordero di Montezemolo considers objectively, “but it is also true that expectations were lower than the final result. ‘ Stefano Gagliardo sums up: ‘the 2022 growing season was undoubtedly a strong one, but to date the wines are more than satisfactory. We will still have to follow their evolution to make a definitive judgement. ”
“Now the musts are fermenting, so there is still a long way to go! “Lorenzo Scavino greets us, inviting us to come back and follow, together with the producers, the evolution of this undoubtedly unique vintage over the next few years of ageing.
